Відео

Happy to do so and I appreciate you watching and your comment! I have found it to be a really solid and efficient way to install floating shelves!

Thanks Charles! I appreciate you watching! Yeah, that bathroom was a pretty unique project!

No, Jim, you should be ok to extend your tile beyond your durock a few inches with no significant problems. What might happen is over time due to the fact there there are two planes coming together (your durock and sheetrock), there might be some slight movement which could cause a hairline crack in your grout joint near that transition. If that occurs and it is noticable, cut the crack slightly with a blade and regrout that line or use a flexible caulk that matches your grout.

You need screws that are long enough to reach into the studs in the wall or the door header in addition to passing through the sheetrock and your barn door header. In most cases, about 2 1/2" screws should be more than enough.

Sorry you are having trouble with your doors. Yeah, it can be tricky because there are so many factors that can affect the way the doors are hanging. Everything being level is one thing, but when there is a gap in the middle where the doors meet, the issue is the counterpoint to level which is “plumb”. Basically when you turn your level 90 degrees. The simplest way to visualize what I am talking about is to take a piece of string and tape it over the top corner of each door leaving the doors an inch or two apart in the middle. Tie a washer to the string or something that is heavy enough for gravity to stretch the string out straight and as close to the floor as possible. You have made what old carpenters would call a “plumb bob”. You can actually buy them at hardware stores. My point is that because of gravity your strings on your doors will be hanging exactly parallel to each other. If each of your doors were hanging aligned with your strings, they would be parallel and would close against each other with no gap. So that’s your challenge. What adjustments to the doors do you have to make to accomplish that? Typically the simplest way is to loosen and adjust the up and down location of a roller on each door until you get the doors to hang ‘plumb’. Don’t worry about level at the top of the doors. It is irrelevant to your plumb problem. If a door or doors is a little out of square, that compounds the issue, but doesn’t change the path to a solution in your situation. Hope that helps! The concept is pretty simple once you understand what is happening but it can be ‘maddening’ trying to figure it out. There are lots of adjustments you can make when hanging two doors. Try to focus on one at a time to try to get the results you want. Good luck!

@@RustyDobbs . Thank you so much for this awesome explanation, well appreciated. B4 you replied, we were thinking to do the bifolding doors but it won't be until tuesday 9/3/2024. Again, thank you so much for replying. May God bless you !!

Thanks, Timothy! I appreciate you watching!

You can find veneer in specialty woodworking supply stores. In my case, Woodworkers Supply is the company I often use and they have an online website too. There are lots of online woodworker's websites these days so you can check them out. Good luck with your grandmother's chest! Those are really rewarding projects to take on!

Thanks, Brent! Yes, I used to do lots of things without giving it a second thought in attics or under houses. With age and a little wisdom, that doesn't happen much anymore! I can only imagine in Florida with the humidity how brutal doing the work you did was! Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I appreciate yo watching!

Same process as on concrete slab. This installation is actually on a wood subfloor. I put down Hardiebacker on this entire wood bathroom subfloor because I was installing tile on the floor too. The main thing about putting a concrete shower floor on a wood subfloor is to consider the additional weight of concrete that will be point loaded on that area where the shower floor is. You just want to make sure the wood trusses and support structure can handle the additional weight.

Given that electrical code generally requires outlets to be spaced regularly around rooms, I've never had a customer raise that as an issue. Outlets can be relocated fairly easily as well if that becomes a issue.

No, in NM. Cost depends on the house and the scope of the problem. You've got to locate the general area of the leak first then determine what you need to do to bypass that section of pipe. When you start cutting into walls and running bypass piping is when it can get pricey. The materials themselves are not that expensive but the labor cost is the real problem if you cannot do some of the work yourself. Plus, it's hard for someone to accurately estimate how many hours doing a repair like this might take. Then, there's the repair and painting of walls that comes next. It really can turn into a nightmare! That's where it is nice to be handy and have some knowledge of construction processes.

Yes, because of the smaller size of the tile (9"x9" as I recall) I like to back butter with extra thinset and not try to spread thinset on the wall also. I place a tile on the wall and pop it off to check for full coverage on the wall and back of the tile. You get the feel of it pretty quickly so every 4 or 5 tiles I check to make sure coverage is still good. Any tile 12" or larger, I definitely apply thinset to the wall and back butter as well. Thanks for watching.

Thanks, John! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks, Robert! I appreciate you watching!

Sure, you can use any width of wood that works and gives you a solid installation. That decision can be left up to your own creativity!

Your contractor buddy is right, Barry! I don’t know of a way to get a seal on a barn door anywhere close to what you get with a traditional hinged door. So you need to think about the privacy issue when using barn doors. Master bath door in master bedroom generally works ok depending on the size of the rooms. Definitely not a good idea on a hall bath next to your dining room!

Sorry for the delayed response, Paul! Yes you are heading in one right direction and as I’m sure you realize there are lots of ways to address your issue. Nice job that you built your own doors! The only downside to enlarging your holes I have found is when I start removing and repositioning the hardware, sometimes that creates a new problem when I reinstall. Particularly with two barn doors, there are lots of things going on during installation that can impact alignment. For future reference, you may not like this idea but if your doors are still unfinished, you could trim 7mm from the top of each door tapered down to nothing at the bottom and eliminate your gap that way particularly if you are satisfied with the way your doors are sliding. A true carpenter might be horrified to hear that suggestion but it’s a simple fix! (I have installed too much tile in my life so that’s where that hack probably came from!)

@@RustyDobbs Hi Rusty, appreciate that you took the time to reply. I fixed the issue by elongating the holes in one of the metal hangers on one door, I used an air wedge bag to lift the opposite lower edge until the gap disappeared & then tightened the bolts on hanger with elongated holes. Problem solved. Doors look great, giving my self big pat on the back for my first attempt at building & hanging barn doors. Thanks again for your response. Regards Paul.

@@paulmannix1760 Nice work, Paul! I could tell from your initial comment that you would have not a problem resolving the issue. Thanks for watching and for your comment!

Thanks for watching and I am glad your shelves turn out well! Yeah, using the all thread rods is a good approach.

Thanks for your comment and I hope your shower project has gone well. I always tell people that their second shower will turn out better than their first! Like with anything, you get better with practice!

The idea of dry pack is to allow water to pass through the shower floor to the shower pan and then into the weep holes at the drain so that water is not collecting or pooling somewhere in the structure of the shower floor. So, in theory, the floor will dry out when not being used. The sand allows the floor to be porous and the portland allows the floor to be solid. I have not used sand topping but my guess is mixing it water like I do my dry pack mix would probably work fine for dry pack.

More information on the drain in Part 1 of this build. At about the 4 minute mark I talk a little about specifically installing the drain. Not too much to it. ua-cam.com/video/doaJt_TsFTU/v-deo.html

No sir... sorry, the closest I got to living in Dallas was Abilene!

Copper used to be the standard for decades until Pex came along and was accepted by the regulators but as you know, copper has its problems too. CPVC was generally used in mobile homes. PVC under pressure has always been ok to use in lawn sprinkler systems but not in homes.

Glad the videos are helpful, Melissa! Feel free to email me at rusty@dobbsworkshop.com with pictures as needed. Would be happy to give you an opinion or two on what you are working on!

Thanks for watching! I sure appreciate it!

In this case, I built the shelf from about 2 1/2" wide pieces of pine so that the holes could be drilled on my drill press. So I only had to align the holes properly when glueing up the shelf to get a good result. To freehand drill straight holes in a wider solid shelf, you need to rig up some type of jig on the edge of your shelf to help keep the drill bit tracking in the center of the shelf as you work. The rods don't have to be tight in the holes, so the drilling process can be pretty forgiving.

Just typical wood assembly screw that are about 2 1/2" long in this case. I like the square head version because they grip better when installing or removing.

No sure I completely understand your question, but drains and sewage lines are not pressurized so the answer is pretty straightforward. Anything that will stop the flow of water is a solution. If it’s a crack or a loose connection of parts that screw together, there are products on the market to try to seal those areas. Thanks for watching!

Yes, but the thumbnail is good! And I think of the hair color as 'ash blonde'. I'll let you handle the correction video!

Thanks for watching and your comment! For this video I used Sketchup to do the animation but it is not really a great animation tool. It took me a while but I have since converted over to Blender which is a lot more versatile.

No, just common sense to make sure the lathe isn’t gouging into the pan material anywhere. The shower pan liners I use are quite thick, durable and pliable. A flood test is not required for this type of installation where I live. With the preslope in place and carefully installing the pan to make sure there are no penetrations prior to the final dry pack, this type of installation will last until someone wants to update the tile. Thanks for watching, Peter!

Good thing, John, is that there are lots of ways to adjust doors… probably too many so it can get confusing! Not that is matters too much at this time, but since you made your doors, are they square? Diagonal measurements will be very close if they are. One quick way to look at a solution for your situation is to think that if each of your doors were raised about 1/4 inch higher in the center where they meet and the outer wheels continue to rest on the rail, the bottom gap would come close to disappearing. You can place shims under each door in the center and see what you need to accurately close the gap. To make that position permanent, you could lower the holes in your doors on the inner wheel hardware and tighten the wheels up to hold that position when the doors are re-hung. If your doors were level at the top before this adjustment, obviously they are not now. Once you get your gap where the doors meet in the middle the way you want, you can mark a level line across both doors at the top and trim the doors at the line. That modification will not be noticeable and your doors will be level to sight at the top and your gap where they meet will be gone. That’s one way to approach your issue. You can adjust all four wheels also to split the difference between more adjustable parts. You just need to understand what it is that you are trying to accomplish before you make big changes that you can’t reverse. Hang in there, John! If you can build your own doors, you can figure this out! You are in the tweaking mode now. Not that far from finishing it up! Good luck!

Glad you found it helpful, EJ. Yeah, I use a couple of methods for building curbs depending on the situation, but both work well. Good luck!

Glad you found it helpful! Came from setting tile around a lot of tubs over the years!

If you have the equipment to sandblast with, it certainly wouldn’t hurt, Jeff. Mainly you want to get rid of loose debris on the iron. The paints these days are pretty good at covering everything else. Fun project!

I like 1/4" x 1/4" trowels for most situations, Javier. It just seems to be a size that is pretty versatile for most any job type that I run across.

Yes, Michael, nothing good is going to come from putting nail holes in any type of shower pan liners except maybe at the top edges in traditional showers to hold them in place! This shower floor has worked out great and is still in perfect shape many years later.